Learn your OSHA rights, spot hazards, choose PPE, understand lockout/tagout and electrical safety, and use hand tools, power tools and measuring tools safely.

Workplace Safety & Tools

Gather the hand tools available to you (a household toolbox is enough). Lay them out on a clear table.

Make a table with columns: tool name, family (driver, pliers, wrench, striking, cutting, layout), what it is for, and condition.

Name each tool using the reading. Look up any you cannot name, and note one you do not have but would expect on a site.

Inspect each tool: handle cracks or looseness, mushroomed heads, worn jaws or tips, rust. Mark it OK or 'remove from service'.

Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the table or hold it in a vise. Put on safety glasses.

Drive three screws using a screwdriver whose tip exactly fits the screw head, then remove them. Note what happens if you try a tip that is one size too small (stop as soon as it slips).

If you have a wrench and a nut and bolt, tighten and loosen the nut by pulling the wrench toward you; with an adjustable, turn so force goes toward the fixed jaw.

Put the tools away with sharp edges covered or facing down.

## Why it matters

Hand tools seem harmless, which is why they cause so many cuts, crushed fingers and eye injuries. Most of those injuries come from three causes: the wrong tool for the job, a damaged tool, or a tool used the wrong way. On your first day, a journeyman will ask for a tool by name; knowing them helps you work faster and safer.

## Tools you will meet

### Screwdrivers and drivers

- **Slotted (flat)**, **Phillips**, **Torx** (star), **square (Robertson)** and **hex** tips. Match the tip size so it fills the screw head; a loose fit strips the screw and slips.
- **Insulated screwdrivers** are rated to 1,000 V and marked with a double triangle. They add protection but never replace de-energising and testing.
- A screwdriver is not a pry bar or chisel.

### Pliers

- **Lineman's (side-cutting) pliers**: electricians' all-rounder for gripping, twisting and cutting wire.
- **Needle-nose (long-nose)**: reach into tight spots, bend loops in wire.
- **Diagonal cutters (dikes)**: flush cuts on wire and cable ties.
- **Tongue-and-groove (slip-joint, "channel locks")**: adjustable jaws for pipes and nuts.
- **Locking pliers**: clamp and hold.

### Wrenches and sockets

- **Combination wrench**: open end on one side, box end on the other. The box end grips all six sides of a nut and slips less.
- **Adjustable wrench**: set the jaws snug, and turn so the force goes toward the **fixed jaw**. A loose adjustable rounds off nuts.
- **Socket set and ratchet**: fast and secure; use a **torque wrench** when a specification gives a tightening value (for example 25 N·m).
- **Hex keys (Allen keys)**: for socket-head screws; metric and inch sizes are not interchangeable.

Always **pull** a wrench toward you rather than push, so your knuckles do not hit something if it slips. Never extend a wrench with a pipe ("cheater bar").

### Striking and cutting tools

- **Claw hammer** for nails; **ball-peen hammer** for metal work and punches. Never strike two hardened tools together.
- **Chisels and punches**: grind off a **mushroomed head**, because chips can fly off it.
- **Utility knife**: cut **away** from your body and your other hand, use a fresh blade (dull blades need more force and slip), retract the blade when you put it down.
- **Hacksaw**: teeth point forward, away from the handle; it cuts on the push stroke.
- **Files**: always with a handle fitted.

### Layout and checking tools

Tape measure (lesson 9), **level** (bubble centred between the lines), **combination square**, **speed square**, chalk line, and a **non-contact voltage tester**, which an electrician uses only as a first warning, never as proof that a circuit is dead.

## Safe use, in five rules

1. **Right tool, right size.** If you are improvising, stop and get the right one.
2. **Inspect before use.** Look for cracked or loose handles, mushroomed heads, worn jaws, damaged insulation. Tag out damaged tools.
3. **Protect yourself.** Safety glasses are standard for striking, cutting and prying. Keep your other hand out of the line of the blade or the slip.
4. **Control the tool.** Stable stance, workpiece clamped in a vise, no working above your head without a plan.
5. **Carry and store safely.** Sharp edges down or covered, no screwdrivers in back pockets, tools off ladders and walkways.

## Worked example: removing a stubborn nut

A 13 mm nut on a pump bracket will not budge.

- **Wrong:** an adjustable wrench, pushed, with a pipe on the handle.
- **Right:** a 13 mm six-point socket on a ratchet, wrist straight, pulling toward you; apply penetrating oil and wait if it is seized. If it still will not move, ask: is it a left-hand thread? Is there a specification? Do not escalate force until you know.

## Common mistakes

- Using pliers on a nut (rounds the corners).
- Using the wrong screwdriver tip and stripping the screw.
- Cutting toward your hand or leg with a utility knife.
- Trusting an insulated tool on a live circuit.
- Leaving tools on the top of a ladder.

## Recap

- Know the families: drivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, striking and cutting, layout tools.
- Match the tool and size, inspect it, wear eye protection, pull don't push, cut away from yourself.

## Try it

In the **Do** tab, inventory a home toolkit, inspect each tool and practise driving screws into scrap wood.


Identify the common hand tools of the trades and use them safely.

Hand tools

Basics of Hand Tool Safety

21 HAND TOOL TIPS, TRICKS & SECRETS!! (Hammer/Screwdriver/Tape Measure/Pliers...& MORE HAND TOOLS!)

With the battery out, write a checklist with eight items from the reading: housing, cord/plug or battery, switch, guards, accessory, chuck key, power supply, label/manual.

Inspect the drill against each item and record pass or fail. If anything fails, stop and tag it 'Do Not Use'.

Find the direction switch, speed range selector and clutch collar, and write down what each one does using the manual or the reading.

Clamp a scrap board to a bench with a second scrap piece underneath. Mark a hole position with a pencil and dimple it.

Put on safety glasses, remove rings and tie back long hair. Do not wear gloves.

Fit the bit with the battery out, insert the battery, set forward and low speed, and drill the hole holding the drill with both hands.

Release the trigger, wait for the bit to stop, lock the direction switch and remove the battery before removing the bit.

Note one thing you would do differently next time.

## Why it matters

Power tools multiply what your hands can do, and they multiply mistakes too. A drill that catches can twist your wrist; a grinder wheel that shatters sends fragments outward at high speed; a frayed cord on a wet slab can electrocute. The fix is mostly routine: inspect before use, set up the work properly, and keep hands and clothing out of the line of fire.

> Every site has rules on which tools you may use and when. Use a tool only after you have been shown how, and follow your supervisor's and the manufacturer's instructions.

## Power tool families

- **Electric (corded or cordless):** drills, impact drivers, saws (circular, reciprocating, jig), grinders, sanders.
- **Pneumatic:** nail guns, impact wrenches, sanders driven by compressed air.
- **Powder-actuated:** fasteners driven by a charge; operators must be specifically trained and certified by the manufacturer's programme.
- **Hydraulic:** jacks, crimpers, benders.

## Pre-use inspection

Do it every time, before you plug in or insert the battery:

1. **Housing:** no cracks, missing screws or melted plastic.
2. **Cord and plug (corded):** no cuts, exposed conductors, taped repairs or crushed sections; ground pin present on three-prong plugs. A **double-insulated** tool (marked with a square inside a square) has a two-prong plug by design.
3. **Battery (cordless):** no cracks, swelling or damage; contacts clean. Damaged lithium-ion batteries can catch fire; set them aside and follow the site's disposal rules.
4. **Switch:** works, and returns to off when released.
5. **Guards:** present, move freely and return (for example, a circular saw's lower guard).
6. **Accessory:** bit, blade or disc is the right type, sharp, undamaged and tight. Grinder discs must be rated for the tool's speed (rpm).
7. **Chuck key removed** before starting a keyed drill.
8. **Power supply:** on construction sites, corded tools are plugged into **GFCI**-protected outlets or cords.

If any check fails, tag the tool "Do Not Use" and report it.

## Setting up the work

- **Clamp the workpiece.** Holding a small part by hand while drilling is how hands get hurt when the bit catches.
- **Wear the right PPE:** safety glasses always; hearing protection for saws, grinders and impact tools; a dust mask or respirator where required (cutting concrete or stone releases silica, which has its own OSHA rules).
- **No loose clothing, jewellery or long hair** near rotating parts. Avoid gloves near drill bits and chucks.
- **Keep the area clear** and know where the cord runs.

## Using a cordless drill: a worked example

**Task:** drill a 6 mm hole through a 19 mm pine board.

1. Inspect the drill and battery (above). Fit a 6 mm wood bit and tighten the chuck firmly; tug the bit to check.
2. Set the **direction switch** to forward and the **speed range** to the low gear (1) for control. The numbered **clutch collar** slips at a set torque; for drilling use the drill symbol setting (no clutch).
3. Clamp the board to a bench with scrap wood underneath so the bit exits cleanly and does not hit the bench.
4. Mark the hole with a pencil and an awl dimple so the bit does not wander.
5. Put on safety glasses. Hold the drill with both hands, wrist straight, bit square to the surface.
6. Start slowly, then increase speed; let the bit do the work. Back out occasionally to clear chips.
7. Release the trigger, wait for the bit to stop, set the direction switch to the centre (locked) position, and remove the battery before changing bits.

## Rules that prevent most injuries

- Disconnect power (unplug or remove the battery) before changing bits, blades or discs, and before any adjustment.
- Never carry a tool by its cord or yank the cord to unplug.
- Never defeat a guard or tape down a trigger.
- Keep both hands on two-handed tools; keep your body out of the kickback path of saws.
- Let the tool stop completely before setting it down.

## Common mistakes

- Using a grinder without its guard, or with a disc rated below the tool's rpm.
- Holding the workpiece in one hand while drilling with the other.
- Wearing gloves near a spinning bit.
- Using a corded tool with a damaged cord because "it still works".
- Leaving the chuck key in the chuck.

## Official source

- OSHA hand and power tools: https://www.osha.gov/hand-power-tools

Checked on 2026-10-23.

## Recap

- Inspect housing, cord or battery, switch, guards and accessory before every use; use GFCI protection on site.
- Clamp the work, wear eye and hearing protection, keep loose items away from rotating parts.
- Disconnect power before changing accessories.

## Try it

The **Do** tab takes you through a written pre-use inspection of a cordless drill and a supervised practice hole in scrap wood.


Do a pre-use inspection of a power tool and use a cordless drill safely.

Power tools

Power Tool Safety — It's In Your Hands

How to Use a Cordless Drill FOR BEGINNERS!

Choose five objects with different sizes, for example a book, a door width, a coin, a pencil and a bolt or bottle cap.

Make a table with columns: object, feature, tool, unit, reading 1, reading 2, reading 3, average.

Measure the door width (an outside measurement) with the tape, letting the hook catch the edge. Then measure an inside width, such as a drawer, pushing the hook against one side. Note how the hook moves.

Measure the book's length and width to the nearest 1/16 inch or 1 mm. Write each inch reading as a simplified fraction.

Measure the coin's diameter and thickness. With a caliper: zero it first and take three readings at different spots. With a ruler: estimate to half a millimetre.

Practise reading the two micrometer examples in the reading without looking at the answers, and check yourself.

Calculate the average of each set of three readings and note the biggest spread between readings.

Convert two of your inch measurements to millimetres (1 in = 25.4 mm) and check them against a metric scale if you have one.

## Why it matters

"Measure twice, cut once" is true in every trade. A conduit run cut 1/2 inch short, a shaft machined 0.05 mm undersize or a bearing bore misread by a thimble turn wastes material and time, or causes a failure later. Choosing the right tool for the accuracy you need, reading it correctly and recording the result clearly are core skills for electricians, mechanics and engineers.

## Resolution and accuracy

- **Resolution** is the smallest step a tool shows: 1/16 inch on many tapes, 0.01 mm on a digital caliper, 0.001 inch or 0.01 mm on a micrometer.
- **Accuracy** is how close the reading is to the true value.
- A rule of thumb: pick a tool at least ten times finer than the tolerance you must check. To check a part toleranced ±0.05 mm, a caliper (0.01 mm resolution, accuracy about ±0.02 mm) is borderline; a micrometer is better.

## The tape measure

- **Inch tapes** divide each inch into 16 parts: the longest line in the middle is 1/2, then 1/4, 1/8, 1/16. Count sixteenths and simplify: 10/16 = 5/8.
- **Metric tapes** show centimetres with millimetre lines.
- The **hook** at the end is loose on purpose. It slides out by its own thickness for pull (outside) measurements and in for push (inside) measurements, so both start at true zero. Do not "fix" it.
- Many tapes mark **16-inch stud centres** (often in red) and small black diamonds for 19.2-inch joist spacing.

**Worked example:** the board ends 3 lines past the 1/2-inch line after 27 inches. 1/2 = 8/16, plus 3/16 = 11/16. Reading: **27 11/16 in**.

## The caliper

A caliper measures outside size (big jaws), inside size (small top jaws), depth (the rod that slides out of the end) and steps. Digital calipers are the most common today; dial and vernier types read the same way in principle.

1. Clean the jaws, close them and press **zero**.
2. Close the jaws on the part squarely, with light, steady pressure. Do not measure on the jaw tips if you can use the flats.
3. Read the display; check the unit (mm or in).
4. Take three readings at different positions and record all three.

## The micrometer

A micrometer is more accurate because its spindle is driven by a precise screw. Standard micrometers cover 25 mm or 1 inch (0–25 mm, 25–50 mm, 0–1 in, 1–2 in, and so on).

Use the **ratchet stop or friction thimble** to close the spindle so every reading uses the same force. Check zero on a clean closed micrometer (or a standard for larger sizes).

### Reading an inch micrometer

- The **sleeve** has numbered lines each worth **0.100 in**, with three small lines between them, each **0.025 in**.
- The **thimble** has 25 divisions, each **0.001 in**.

Worked example: the sleeve shows "2" fully visible (0.200), plus 3 small lines (3 × 0.025 = 0.075), and the thimble line 12 aligns with the sleeve's centre line (0.012).

Reading = 0.200 + 0.075 + 0.012 = **0.287 in**.

### Reading a metric micrometer

- The sleeve has 1 mm lines above the centre line and 0.5 mm lines below it.
- The thimble has 50 divisions, each **0.01 mm**.

Worked example: 7 mm lines visible, plus a 0.5 mm line showing below, and thimble line 23 aligned. Reading = 7 + 0.5 + 0.23 = **7.73 mm**.

## Recording measurements

Write the value, the unit, the tool and the conditions. A short table works:

| Part | Feature | Tool | Reading 1 | Reading 2 | Reading 3 | Average |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shaft A | diameter | 0–25 mm micrometer | 19.98 mm | 19.97 mm | 19.98 mm | 19.98 mm |

Do not round in the record; report the precision the tool gave. If readings disagree a lot, check the tool, the part (is it out of round?) and your technique.

## Common mistakes

- Pressing a tape hook back in to "fix" it.
- Reading 5/8 when the mark is 9/16 (count lines carefully).
- Forgetting to zero a digital caliper or reading in the wrong unit.
- Squeezing a micrometer thimble directly instead of using the ratchet.
- Forgetting the 0.5 mm line on a metric micrometer, an error of exactly 0.5 mm.
- Measuring hot parts; metal grows with temperature.

## Recap

- Choose a tool at least ten times finer than the tolerance.
- Tape: sixteenths, sliding hook for true zero.
- Caliper: zero, square, light pressure, three readings.
- Micrometer: ratchet for consistent force; inch = 0.100 + 0.025s + thimble thousandths; metric = mm + 0.5 + thimble hundredths.

## Try it

In the **Do** tab you will measure household objects and record a proper measurement table.


Take and record accurate measurements with a tape measure, caliper and micrometer.

Measuring: tape, caliper, micrometer

How to Read a Tape Measure - REALLY EASY

How to Read a Micrometer

Write down your target job and the type of workplace (construction site, factory, utility, mine).

Find three real job ads or apprenticeship application pages for that job in your area. Copy every safety card or training they mention.

Decide whether you need OSHA 10 or OSHA 30, and Construction or General Industry, and write why.

Open OSHA's Outreach Training Program page (https://www.osha.gov/training/outreach) and note how to verify an authorized trainer or online provider.

Find two authorized options near you or online (for example a community college, union training centre or authorized online provider). Note cost, hours and schedule.

List the other credentials from the reading that your target job is likely to need, and mark which ones the employer usually provides after hiring.

Make a timeline with dates for each credential you will get before applying.

Add a 'Safety training' section to your résumé draft with the card type, provider and expected date.

## Why it matters

Many job ads for apprentices, technicians and field engineers say "OSHA 10 required" or "OSHA 30 preferred". Some states, cities, unions and general contractors require a card before you can step onto a site. Knowing what these cards are, what they are not, and where to get a real one saves money and helps you avoid scams.

## The OSHA Outreach Training Program

OSHA's **Outreach Training Program** is a voluntary programme that teaches workers to recognise and prevent common workplace hazards. Classes are taught by **OSHA-authorized trainers** (or authorized online providers), and on completion you get a **Department of Labor (DOL) card**.

- **OSHA 10-hour**: for entry-level workers. Covers worker rights, the Focus Four hazards (falls, struck-by, caught-in/between, electrocution), PPE, health hazards and more.
- **OSHA 30-hour**: for supervisors and workers with safety responsibilities. More depth and more topics.
- Versions exist for **Construction**, **General Industry**, **Maritime** and **Disaster Site** work. Electricians and site engineers usually take Construction; plant mechanics often take General Industry. If unsure, ask the employers you want to work for.

### What the card is and is not

- It **is** proof that you completed an awareness course.
- It is **not** an OSHA certification or licence. OSHA does not certify workers.
- It does **not** replace the task-specific training your employer must give you (LOTO, fall protection, confined space, forklift and so on).
- Federal OSHA cards do not expire, but some states, unions and employers require a refresher every few years. Check the requirement where you will work.

### Avoiding fake courses

Only authorized trainers and authorized online providers can issue DOL cards. Before you pay, check the provider on OSHA's Outreach page. Warning signs: courses that promise a card in less than the full hours, "OSHA certification" wording, or prices far below everyone else's. Online courses limit how many hours you can complete per day, so a 10-hour course takes at least two days.

## Other cards and credentials employers ask for

| Credential | Who it is for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| First aid / CPR / AED | Many site roles | From recognised bodies such as the American Red Cross or American Heart Association |
| Forklift (powered industrial truck) | Warehouse and plant workers | Employer must train and evaluate you; re-evaluation at least every 3 years |
| Fall protection (authorized or competent person) | Workers at height, supervisors | Employer or third-party training |
| NFPA 70E electrical safety | Electricians, electrical engineers, mechanics near equipment | Employer decides who is qualified |
| Confined space entrant / attendant | Plant, utilities, civil work | Site-specific |
| MSHA training | Anyone working at mines and quarries | Separate federal agency (Mine Safety and Health Administration) |
| TWIC | Workers at secure port facilities | TSA-issued ID |
| Site orientation | Everyone on a new site | Every large site runs its own |

Licences are separate again: an electrician's journeyman licence, a PE licence for engineers. Those are covered in later courses.

## Worked example: planning for a first apprenticeship

Jordan wants to apply to an electrical apprenticeship next spring.

1. **Research**: three local programmes' application pages list "OSHA 10 Construction recommended" and "valid driver's licence".
2. **Choose**: OSHA 10 Construction from an authorized provider (some community colleges and union training centres offer it free or cheaply). Budget the time: 10 hours over at least two days.
3. **Add**: First aid/CPR from a recognised provider.
4. **Record**: keep the card, a photo of it and the provider's name in a folder; list both on the résumé with the dates.
5. **Next**: NFPA 70E and fall protection training will come from the employer once hired.

## Common mistakes

- Paying for "OSHA certification" from an unauthorized website.
- Taking General Industry when the target job is construction (or the reverse).
- Listing a card on a résumé without the date or the type.
- Thinking the card means you can do any task. It means you know the hazards exist.

## Official sources

- OSHA Outreach Training Program (10- and 30-hour cards, authorized providers): https://www.osha.gov/training/outreach
- Apprenticeships (US Department of Labor): https://www.apprenticeship.gov/

Requirements and approved providers change. Checked on 2026-10-23.

## Recap

- OSHA 10 is for entry-level workers; OSHA 30 for supervisors. Pick Construction or General Industry to match your target job.
- The DOL card shows course completion, not certification; employers still owe you task training.
- Verify the provider is authorized; budget time and record the card on your résumé.

## Try it

The **Do** tab has you build your own safety-credentials plan.


Plan the OSHA Outreach cards and other safety credentials employers ask for.

Getting OSHA 10/30 and site cards

Is an OSHA 10 Card the Same as Being OSHA Certified? | Trade Training Explained

Identify and use hand and power tools safely, take accurate measurements, and plan the safety cards employers ask for.